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When compiling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might foresee renowned award-winning venues. However, nestled near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu found in a outlying corner of north London.

A Shocking Recognition

The little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I am utterly surprised,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble place securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all down to the cuisine, and this restaurant definitely excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that price.

A Creed of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to have meaning beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider significance of this culinary triumph.